“the design of textiles, as that of architecture, has never been a static phenomenon. It is in a state of continuous transformation, changing and developing in response to user’s preferences and producer’s capabilities. The transformation of design is essential for the survival of any textile tradition”
– Martand Singh
Textile are not only aesthetically pleasing but also give us the glimpse of socio-economic, political, religious influence in the society.
The smallest unit of patter is motif which is repeated as desired. Often inspired by nature and also socioeconomic, cultural or religious factors, the motifs on traditional Indian apparel are all distinct and mostly
very colorfully represented. Part of the Indian fashion regime since ancient time when kings ruled the country, these motifs are often also a representation of the different styles from an era gone by. Also derived from architectures and religious philosophies, birds, flowers, fruits and even animals have stories to tell, beliefs to share .one of the famous Indian motifs Paisley or Monokalam in Sanskrit represents fertility and is extensively used in textile arts like Chikankari from Lucknow or Kantha from Bengal. Paisley motif was really popular among the British trader and even led to town being named after it.
Animal motifs like peacock are common in apparel for bride, and are known to represent fertility, courtship and immortality. In some beliefs it symbolizes the completeness of being a ‘woman’. Likewise parrots tell the tale of lord Krishna and his lover Radha. They are generally found in the states of Rajasthan , Bengal and Gujrat and are often used in couture for both bride and groom.
The motifs of ancient India are many each having its own unique meaning, which may believe to emanate a beauty of the person who adorns it. All this started to change when India was acquired by Babur the first Mughal emperor of India. There was a shift in the patterns and the way in which motifs were used. They used intricately done fabrics adorns by a variety of motifs . one of the most common thing we see in the patter whether textile or historical site was the use of geometrical shapes trying to accentuate the center. Mirroring was also commonly seen in mosque and the interior of court.
Trade flourished and attracted the attention of the European traders which lead to the set of the East Indian Company and the shift in the economic state of the country. Indian chintz was one of the fabric in high demand throughout the Europe , it almost destroyed the local wool industry of Britain and was ultimately banned from many parts in Europe .
The Sarasa of Japan or calico/chintz carried by Portuguese merchants traders was famous among the samurais and rich. Indian calicos presented themselves as unconventional designed cotton fabric containing vivid colours with striking abstract geometrical and
animal design. This stood out in stark contrast to the common blue indigo cotton.
The textile produced after acquisition of India by British was regulated. After the industrial revolution the local industries took a hit and the chief produce was cotton with simplistic design in both India and Britain.
In the pre independence phase people started to search of symbols and fabric to incite a feeling of nationalism and pride in one owns culture. The Tagore family was among the first to do so. There was a comeback for symbols like Lotus and Goose. The motif lotus was the most popular, it represents the power of life , symbol of eternal order and union of earth. It was really common in flags and the saris worn at that time. It is also the symbol of one of the largest party of India.
Nowadays Indian textiles can be seen all over the world from the madras plaid worn by a us banker to the delicately made gown of Victorian era or the intricate brocade gowns adorning a royal.
We have seen how Indian textile evolved through the ages and took the shape we see today carrying with it the shadows of the eras gone by. From the favorite calico of a samurai to the psychedelic hippies and the French provenacal block prints brought along the silk
road all carry a hint of Indian to taste. The story of merchant and economic success continuing forward pleasing the eyes of many , carrying the rich legacy with it .
